Robe Step back in time

If you want to escape the Australian frenzy and spend a few peaceful days, head out to Robe — a gracious, relaxed South Australian coastal town that knows how to celebrate life’s finer things: fine landscapes, fine food, fine wine and fine time.

Located along the Limestone Coast, this quaint little town is known for its historic buildings, beautiful beaches and relaxed atmosphere. Robe has emerged as a popular holiday destination for those who wish to enjoy some quiet time, away from the hustle and bustle of city life.

The town is a little over three-and-a-half-hours from Adelaide, portraying a storied history as one of South Australia’s busiest international ports, offering a variety of options to unearth its stunning past, including a stroll along the high street, digging into the town’s heritage or just walking on the beach. The place also offers multiple outdoor options like surfing, kayaking and walking along the scenic coastline, leave alone its reputation for seafood cuisine and delectable confectioneries.

Robe remains one of southern Australia’s most popular holiday destinations, attracting visitors from across the country and overseas because of its unspoilt scenery, old-world charm, laidback lifestyle, and popular eateries serving fresh local produce and premium local wines.

In the latter half of the 19th century, this was the second busiest shipping port in the state. While that level of industry declined many decades ago, the town was left with an abundance of gorgeous period buildings and several famous maritime landmarks.

A visit to Robe offers something for everyone, and you can do as much or as little as you like. Be dazzled by the stunning coastal scenery and enjoy the beautiful beaches. Delve into the town’s intriguing backstory and pay your respects to the seafarers of the past. Indulge in some holiday retail therapy or treat your taste buds at one of the many cafes and restaurants (the local fishing industry ensures that seafood is always a good menu choice!). And the list goes on.

Robe Customs House is a very attractive limestone building built in 1863. It may be small in stature, but it houses a museum big on fascinating facts about the past. Besides exploring local maritime history (such as the many shipwrecks that occurred off the hazardous coastline and tales of adventurous explorers), you’ll learn about the thousands of Chinese migrants who came ashore here during the gold rush and walked overland to the Victorian goldfields to avoid a poll tax.

There are plenty of other references to Robe’s intriguing past around the town itself. Along Obelisk Road, The Encounter Signal is a memorial to Matthew Flinders and Nicholas Baudin. The English and French explorers famously met in Encounter Bay in 1802 while charting Australia’s southern coastline. Today you’ll find many places that bear names bestowed by one or the other during their expeditions — including Guichen Bay, on which Robe is located.

Further along the coastline is Robe’s famous Obelisk — erected in 1852 to guide ships along the treacherous coastline and into the bay. Standing at approximately 12 metres tall, it served to warn sailors of the dangerous reefs in the area. The jaunty red bands were a later addition (1862), after complaints that the obelisk was too difficult to see. To get to the obelisk, you’ll pass the ruins of the Old Robe Gaol. It had a short and rather chequered 20-year history (including a number of escapes).

The obelisk also played a crucial role in lifesaving efforts with rockets being fired from the structure to stranded ships, allowing lifeboats to be pulled to safety. Today, Robe Obelisk is a popular tourist attraction offering panoramic views of the rugged coastline and the Southern Ocean. Given its striking appearance against the backdrop of the cliffs and sea, it sure is a favourite photography spot.

Back down in town, busts of Flinders and Baudin at the Seafarers Memorial in Royal Circus are to be seen. Nearby, the red Chinese Arch at Robe Beach, with the brilliant blue ocean as its backdrop, is a stunning sight. The arch and memorial mark the spot where those 16,500 Chinese would-be prospectors landed between 1856 and 1858 and began the 500-kilometre walk east to seek their fortunes. Many died along the way, some gave up and returned home while others survived, stayed and prospered — serving as living proof of an epic tale.

The town itself was named after South Australian Governor Frederick Holt Robe, who chose the site for a new port and settlement in 1846, to serve as the government and commercial hub of the colony’s south-east. The area was attracting a growing number of pastoralists, who needed supplies and a convenient shipping route for their wool.

By 1859, Robe had become one of southern Australia’s busiest ports, and the second largest out-port for wool in South Australia, driven by the energy and business acumen of local shipping agent, George Ormerod. Within a period of just 10 years, more than £1 million worth of wool passed through Robe on its way to Europe, with many ships sailing directly to London.

Beach lovers are spoilt for choice in Robe. Long Beach, as the name suggests, is a lengthy 12 kilometres of golden sand and is without doubt one of the best beaches in Australia. If you enjoy the thrill of beach driving in a 4WD, this is just the right opportunity for you.

Closer to the tourist centre are Hooper Beach, Fox Beach and West Beach with Town Beach being the most popular with travellers as it’s just a minute’s walk from the main street. Relax on its pure white sand or paddle in crystal clear water, with a little energetic swim out to the pontoon being another great option.

A relaxed spot for shopping is another time-honoured holiday pastime, and the main street of Robe has some wonderful boutiques to browse in (and many are situated in charming heritage buildings). As you walk into Loaves and Fishes, you’re hit by a soothing scent that gives the shop a lovely ambience. The store has a great sense of style and is filled with gorgeous homewares and gifts. You’re sure to find a piece of beach chic to take home with you.

For those who have a passion for fashion, Retail Therapy stocks stylish pieces and accessories with Me and Miss Jones offering impressive boho wear and wares.

For such a small place, Robe is big on culinary highlights. Nothing beats the smell of freshly roasted coffee to get the day off to a great start. Fresh waffles can also chip in. Some of the most prominent spots include Mahalia Coffee, the historic Caledonian Inn (known locally as ‘the Cally’) for your seafood dining pleasure, with a much wider menu, including a great selection of steaks. The main heritage building is beautifully maintained and offers plenty of good vibes.

Straight over the road, Sails at Robe does a modern Aussie menu (again, with an emphasis on seafood), served in a contemporary setting while Olives restaurant and bar (formerly The Project) has lots of interesting upcycled touches and a menu of pizzas, pastas and share plates.

If you’re a wine lover, wander a little further up the road to the Attic House — the cellar door of Governor Robe Wines. You can sample a range of their wines, then sit back and relax with a glass of your favourite drop and a sharing platter of delicious bites.

For those who prefer a cold beer or cider, Robe Town Brewery would be their chosen spot. This micro brewhouse produces 21 different brews and the beer is made using old-fashioned straw filtration with wood-fired kettles and open fermentation. Make sure you try the pungent Moby Dick Ambergris Ale which is made with actual ambergris — a secretion that forms in the gut of a sperm whale, then washes up on the beach! Don’t go by how it sounds, it definitely tastes a lot better!

Robe’s fishing industry was established in the first half of the 20th century and is renowned for the exportation of the southern rock lobster. At one time it was possible to go down to the marina and buy fresh lobsters straight off the trawlers. That’s no longer an option, but you can visit Sky Seafoods and choose a fresh lobster from their tank. Down at the entrance of the marina, the Fishermen’s Memorial marks a poignant commemoration of local fishermen lost at sea.

As the year draws to a close, it’s time to refresh, rewind and recharge. And what better destination than this little town steeped in history. Pack up then to discover a hidden gem of South Australia and live some moments that are sure to become unforgettable memories.

Views expressed are personal