Israel - Shining in Dull Times

The last 10 days I spent exploring Israel were by far the best, combining fascinating and layered history, cultural and religious dynamics, amazing food, and warm people. I was lucky to have Ofer Drori as my travel guide — the way he talks about the history of the place and the stories behind it really brings everything to life. Travelling to this part of the world is incredibly rewarding. Despite its small size, it is absolutely fascinating, boasting thousands of years of history and culture, as well as being one of the most tech- and entrepreneur-focused modern countries. The country is like a small package with big offerings. Its size helps you see and do a lot in a short period of time.

As a first-time visitor to Israel, I had a lot of doubts while planning my trip. All I can say is: stop believing blindly what the media has been feeding you for so many years. Like many other countries, Israel has a turbulent past, and it is slowly working to change the perception people have of it. We’re talking about a place where three major religions are trying to coexist - naturally, there will be some friction. But as a traveller, you will definitely not face any problems because of this. Since military service is mandatory for most young Israelis, you will often see them around the city carrying guns, but this in no way disrupts daily life.

Budget

Israel is definitely not cheap. When it comes to budgeting, it’s best to plan as you would for a trip to Europe.

Arriving

As soon as you arrive in Tel Aviv, you’re taken aback by its vibrancy and infectious energy. If you want to be in the heart of it all — markets, beach, nightlife, restaurants — the best place to stay is in Jaffa. I booked The Market House Hotel, a cute boutique property with all the modern amenities you need, plus great, friendly staff and impeccable service. Once you’ve relaxed and had a good rest, head out to experience the vibrancy the city has to offer. The city’s promenade offers an amazing stroll along the Mediterranean coast, with people biking, walking, rollerblading, and riding electric scooters. The spirit and buzz of the city are truly contagious! After walking around a little and taking in the colours, I headed to Dr. Shakshuka — a restaurant famous for its variety of shakshuka. This burst of flavours is sure to bring a smile to your face.

The next morning, I headed to Old Jaffa, a historic neighbourhood located south of the city. This charming area is full of stunning buildings and picturesque streets, with waves crashing on one side. Next was Carmel Market — an open-air flea market with everything you can think of: from fresh produce to clothing, jewellery, home goods, antiques, and food. The market is a paradise for any shopper. Don’t forget to negotiate — they will come down on prices and you can get great deals. Be sure to visit the Hostages and Missing Square at the public plaza — it symbolizes the large number of people still missing or held hostage. A Shabbat table has been set with empty chairs and plates, waiting for their return. This square states loud and clear that Israel stays united as one. The sight here will fill you with emotion — a mix of rage, anger, pain, and tears all at once. After this emotional episode, head to Sarona Market — a foodie’s paradise. You can also shop for some local sweets to take away. The food options here will surely cheer you up.

Caesarea National Park

After soaking in the energy of this cosmopolitan city, I headed to Caesarea National Park the next morning. The park sits right on the edge of the Mediterranean Sea, telling tales of opulence and ingenuity. It’s quite the place, but the story of Herod and all that went on here is even more fascinating. One must watch a short film about Herod and his love for new buildings and technology to dive deep into Caesarea’s history. Caesarea is considered one of the most upscale residential developments in Israel — and man, you can see why.

Sea of Galilee

After the grand tour of Caesarea and learning about Herod’s marvels, I made my way to Tiberias. As soon as you arrive at the Sea of Galilee, you’ll notice that it’s actually a freshwater lake, not a sea. The lake holds great religious significance for Christians, as it’s believed that Jesus performed many of his miracles and teachings here. Take a sail on the Sea of Galilee and immerse yourself in the biblical stories this lake has to offer.

Hula Valley Nature Reserve and Haifa

Hula Valley Nature Reserve, located in northern Israel, have a lot to offer with their breathtaking landscapes and rich biodiversity. It’s a paradise for bird watchers, with millions of birds migrating through the region. Finishing our nature trail, I headed to Haifa to visit the Baha’i Gardens and the German Colony. Nestled on the slopes of Mount Carmel, Haifa offers a blend of cultural diversity, natural beauty, and historical depth, with iconic attractions like the Baha’i Gardens (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) and the German Colony. The Baha’i Gardens are truly a sight to behold and serve as the world centre of the Baha’i faith. Right below the gardens lies the German Colony, built by the Germans and famous for its distinctive architectural style. It buzzes with quaint restaurants, perfect for a laid-back evening.

Jerusalem

After Haifa, my next destination was Jerusalem. Caesarea had been my favourite place — until I arrived here. It’s fascinating to see different religions living and worshipping together in this ancient city. Although they reside in separate areas, there is mutual respect. You can’t help but feel like you are in the presence of something special. The old city is divided into four quarters — Christian, Armenian, Jewish, and the largest, Muslim. All are connected by a maze of narrow, pristine streets and small shops selling everything from tourist trinkets to fresh bread and coffee. If only these massive walls could talk! Each quarter is crowned with its grand religious building, and there is a noticeable military presence at every corner. Jerusalem is filled with world-famous sites you must see. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is almost hidden in the middle of the old city — and if it weren’t for the crowd, you might miss one of Christianity’s greatest sanctuaries behind its unassuming façade. It’s said Jesus was crucified here, and that his grave lies within the church. Visiting this sacred site was a humbling and moving experience. We also walked the Via Dolorosa, the path Jesus is believed to have taken on his way to the crucifixion. It is lined with chapels and churches, and the sense of history is palpable. The Wailing Wall, with the Temple Mount and Golden Dome above it, is perhaps the most iconic image of Jerusalem. People bring their prayers on slips of paper and place them in the cracks of the wall. It’s believed that every prayer is heard — so take your chance. Jerusalem is indescribable. Walking through the narrow lanes of a city you’ve only read about in history books is surreal. Jerusalem has this effect on you — you can’t get enough of it, yet at some point, you might feel like you’ve had your fill, with religion peeking out from every stone of the high walls that surround the city.

Masada and Dead Sea

After all the religious and historical intake, I was headed to Masada — a city of royalty, survival, and eventually, mass suicide! Built by Herod the Great, this cliff-top city is incredibly well preserved. The entire site has black lines along the walls separating what is original from what has been restored. The whole experience of Masada is dreamlike — you’re 1,300 feet high on top of a cliff, looking at structures built thousands of years ago. Masada tells an enthralling story of struggle and resilience, showcasing the bravery of its inhabitants during a Roman siege. After Masada, you can drive down to the Dead Sea, the lowest point on Earth. The water has 30 per cent more salinity, so you float with zero effort. I was thrilled to be able to visit the Dead Sea! Book yourself into any hotel of your choice and make sure to experience their hot mud spa. My choice was the Herbert Samuel Hot Hotel, right on the Dead Sea shore. The Dead Sea experience is straight out of our geography textbooks — sure to remind you of your geography teacher. I couldn’t help but smile!

Delhi Calling

As it was a wrap, I returned to Tel Aviv to catch my flight back to Delhi. This beautiful country has so much more to offer than one can imagine — it challenges perceptions and sparks curiosity. Israel’s extraordinary ability to weave the ancient with the ultra-modern will leave you mesmerised. Vibe with the energy, and get ready to be surprised by everything this country has to offer. Given the present-day situation, safety might be a concern for some — but it is extremely safe to walk around the city. You won’t even feel the tension you read about or see in the media.

Views expressed are personal