A rejoicing coffee town

Leaving behind the streets of Delhi, I embarked on a journey to the picturesque town of Filandia in Colombia. The excitement of exploring a new continent was palpable as I boarded the flight from Indira Gandhi International Airport. The route, Delhi to Bogotá via Paris, was long but filled with anticipation. After a brief layover in the City of Light, I found myself flying over the Andes, with Bogotá welcoming me in the early hours of the morning.

Bogotá, Colombia’s vibrant capital, was a whirlwind of colours, sounds, and flavours. The city’s energy was infectious, but my final destination was the tranquil town of Filandia, nestled in the heart of the Coffee Triangle. After a night’s rest in Bogotá, I took a domestic flight to Pereira, followed by a scenic drive through rolling hills and lush coffee plantations to reach Filandia.

Filandia, often called the "Illuminated Hill of the Andes," is a small town that feels like a step back in time. As I wandered through its cobblestone streets, I was greeted by colourful colonial houses, each more charming than the last. The town square, with its vibrant atmosphere and friendly locals, immediately made me feel at home.

Coffee culture and hospitality

Colombia is renowned for its coffee, and Filandia is no exception. My first stop was a traditional coffee farm, where I met Don Francisco, a third-generation coffee farmer. His enthusiasm for his craft was evident as he guided me through the coffee-making process, from picking the ripe cherries to roasting the beans. Tasting the freshly brewed coffee, rich and aromatic, was an experience I’ll never forget.

Don Francisco’s hospitality extended beyond the farm. That evening, he invited me to his home for dinner with his family. The warmth and kindness of the Colombian people were on full display as we shared stories over a hearty meal of bandeja paisa, a traditional dish of beans, rice, pork, plantain, and avocado. The meal was a celebration of local flavours and genuine human connection.

Filandia is surrounded by breathtaking natural beauty, and exploring its landscapes was a highlight of my trip. One morning, I joined a guided tour to the Barbas Bremen Nature Reserve. The reserve, with its dense forests and diverse wildlife, felt like a hidden paradise. As we hiked through the trails, our guide, Maria, pointed out various birds, including the striking Andean Cock-of-the-rock.

One particular moment stands out: while resting by a waterfall, we encountered a troop of howler monkeys swinging through the trees. Their calls echoed through the forest, creating a symphony of nature that was both thrilling and serene. Maria’s passion for conservation and her deep knowledge of the local ecosystem added a layer of appreciation to the experience.

Filandia is also known for its artisan crafts, particularly basket weaving. I visited the workshop of Doña Rosa, a master weaver who has been practicing her craft for over five decades. Watching her nimble fingers transform strands of fique (a local plant fibre) into intricate baskets was mesmerizing. She patiently taught me the basics, and while my attempts were far from perfect, the experience was deeply fulfilling.

Doña Rosa’s stories of the town’s history and traditions were as captivating as her craft. She spoke of the annual celebrations, the music, and the dances that bring the community together. Her pride in her heritage was evident, and it made me appreciate the richness of Filandia’s culture even more.

Colombian cuisine is diverse and flavourful, and Filandia offers a delightful culinary journey. At a local eatery, I tried sancocho, a hearty stew made with meat, vegetables, and herbs. The flavours were comforting and familiar, yet distinct. The owner, Señora Carmen, shared that the secret to a good sancocho is slow cooking and fresh, local ingredients.

Another culinary highlight was visiting a small bakery famous for its arepas. These cornmeal cakes, filled with cheese, meat, or vegetables, were a perfect snack. The baker, an elderly gentleman named Juan, revealed that the recipe had been passed down through generations, each adding their own twist.

As my days in Filandia drew to a close, I spent an evening at the Mirador Colina Iluminada, a lookout point offering panoramic views of the town and the surrounding landscape. Watching the sunset over the rolling hills, with the sky painted in hues of orange and pink, was a moment of pure tranquillity.

But it was the people of Filandia who truly made my journey unforgettable. From Don Francisco’s warm hospitality to Doña Rosa’s masterful weaving, Maria’s passionate guidance, and the culinary delights shared by Señora Carmen and Juan, each encounter enriched my experience.

Returning to Delhi, I carried with me more than just memories of beautiful landscapes and delicious food. Filandia had gifted me a deeper understanding of Colombian culture, a sense of connection with its people, and a renewed appreciation for the simple joys of life. This small town, with its big heart, had left an indelible mark on my soul.

Filandia is not just a destination; it is a journey into the heart of Colombia, a place where time slows down, and every moment is savoured. For those seeking a blend of natural beauty, rich culture, and genuine human warmth, Filandia is a treasure waiting to be discovered.

The writer is a freelance travel journalist