Talking Shop: Turn Off the Burner

“What a culture we live

in. We swim in an ocean

of information, but (still)

we drown in ignorance.”

— Richard Paul Evans

It is flippery being deep-fried on a flame turned on full tilt, doling out hot fumes and air – it is thus viewed from afar with care, often with tainted glasses. All this for a dish that has been on the boil since the 1950s and is still on the burner. It is time to turn off the gas and close the argument over palm oil once and for all. As with all things sticky and lacking in real substance, there are only two ways to douse falsehoods and misinformation. One, soak the issue in detergent or vinegar, getting rid of any trace-smells; two, challenge the abusers of newsprint and social media with real news, evidence and undeniable facts. In short, bring in some boiling water and poach the vilifying half-cocks and hens who are touting their plumage as the real thing, when all they are toting is decades of gibberish.

Paul Evans was right in his quote above, that mankind is dying of asphyxia in a room full of oxygen cylinders. It is akin to walking into India’s new supermarkets that dot every other street-corner and hunt for cooking oil – you will find olive oils with a fancy Mediterranean flair though of indeterminate lineage, myriad brands of sunflower oil with a sexy golden floret in full bloom smacked on the label, and our own desi counterparts; healthy and gooey cooking aids that ooze out just as their Mother Mustard, Soyabeans and Groundnuts scream on being crushed and assassinated.

Every palm needs to smack

Anyway, this gathering of slick, glib heroes cannot be complete without a villain, one who should ideally smack with his palm the excesses that get too oily to grin and bear. Today is that time. Since we are talking of scripted vilification, let us visit the unrequited anti-hero – palm oil. Decades of indoctrination and programming make us hesitate in supermarkets’ edible oil aisles when we come across this ‘palm guy’. After all, our mind rehashes articles, headlines and advice from friends who always said ‘No’. But what if we were told that this smear campaign began in the 1950s in the US, a capitalist rivalry of the corporate world that would put James (Bond) to shame?

This story of targeted slander was born in boardrooms, not rainforests. Once upon a time, palm oil started standing up to all other cooking alternatives – olive oil, sunflower oil, sesame oil, corn oil… you name it. It didn’t take long for self-preservation to kick in among certain industry players – instead of taking the challenger head-on by improving their products, they went on a media bombardment blitz. Suddenly, palm oil wasn’t good; it was public enemy number one. It was an oil that would stealthily enter your house, cut down any trees, sleep in your bed, eat your dog for breakfast, apart from (of course) raising your cholesterol levels. Was this true? In one word, no. But why let facts get in the way of a great villain and such a crafty plot?

WHO & World Bank ignored

Experts rushed in to stop the misinformation, insisting that palm oil makes products economical, allows them to have a longer shelf life and has a slew of health benefits. The World Health Organization recommended limiting the intake of trans-fats to below 1 per cent of any person’s energy intake per day; as palm oil has a zero count on this front, it’s use was propounded. India’s own ICMR-NIN ‘Dietary Guidelines for 2024’ placed palm oil alongside other oils such as groundnut, cottonseed, sesame and olive, since the former is rich in monounsaturated fatty acids, a means to healthy living. “Dietary fats contain minor components such as tocopherols, tocotrienols, sterols, etc. Tocotrienols reduce blood cholesterol,” the ICMR-NIN guidelines noted.

The World Bank spoke of things from the international economic and equality perspective: “Palm oil plays a significant role in poverty alleviation in developing countries, particularly in South-East Asia, Africa, and Latin America.” For instance, in Indonesia alone, palm oil provides livelihoods to millions of farmers with small land holdings. Worldwide, palm oil plantations have transformed impoverished rural areas into vibrant economic centres.

Prime Minister Narendra Modi also personally emphasized the role of affordable oil alternatives in achieving self-reliance in edible oils and improving the income of farmers. “We aim to make India aatmanirbhar (self-sufficient) in edible oils,” he said in a 2021 address, highlighting the importance of sustainable practices. Soon after his statement, the Government advocated palm oil production, ramping up efforts under the National Mission on Edible Oils – Oil Palm. The objective of the initiative is to reduce dependence on imported edible oils, improve farmer income and boost self-reliance.

Surprisingly, and/or perhaps due to the vigorous competitor push, these opinions and validations were ignored, or put on the corporate backburner.

What of the Developing World?

For most countries in this category, oil is more than just a cooking ingredient, it is a lifeline. This holds particularly true for palm oil, with much of Asia and Africa (India for sure) relying heavily on it. In Malaysia and Indonesia, it’s not just an export commodity; it’s the economic backbone. For India, the world’s largest consumer of edible oils, palm oil provides an affordable and versatile solution in a country where millions struggle with food security. That’s where things get interesting. While palm oil helps lift so many people out of poverty, the competitors’ narrative completely ignores this aspect.

Let's talk health. Studies conducted by Harvard’s TH Chan School of Public Health showed that palm oil is rich in vitamins A and E, as well as antioxidants. These nutrients are not only good for heart health, but also for skin and immune functions. And get a load of this – the oil’s balance of saturated and unsaturated fats is similar to that of olive oil (which everyone agrees is a ‘heart-healthy elixir’).

Let’s talk science. Palm oil is stable, which means it doesn’t break down into harmful compounds when heated to high temperatures. Compare that to popular oil kinds (I don’t want to run down any others, since they sometimes make my burgers and fries too), which oxidize faster than a cheap Dussehra Raavan mask left in the hot Indian sun.

Let’s talk environment. Apart from India, Indonesia is also focussing heavily on sustainable palm oil production – the latter has introduced policies aimed at stopping deforestation and ensuring the use of already-cleared land for palm oil plantations. This isn’t just good for the environment, it is smart business too.

Soliloquy to ponder over

I am no advocate of any kind or brand of oil, just a commentator on things I see around me. What I see on the edible oils front is alarming – an affordable oil that is as good as any other kind has been run down for decades, since before I was born, all because of what appears to be corporate strategy and tactics. That may be fine in some rich parts of the world, but in mine, where buying a litre of oil or a kg of tomatoes or onions, or even a kg of fruit or pulses can be more than the majority population’s daily earnings, it is nothing short of criminal.

I use olive oil as much as I use mustard oil as much as I use palm oil. And other kinds. I use desi tomatoes as much as I use organic or hybrid ones, provided the price is right, for I know none are bad for me. The same goes for bananas, oranges, beans, mushrooms and whathaveyou.

The one thing that doesn’t go down well with me is a forked tongue, and what I see here is tantamount to a rattlesnake hissing at me from both its ends. I don’t like it. You shouldn’t either. Buy whatever you want, so long as it fits your needs and suits your pocket, and is fine for your continued well-being. Do not be swayed by these corporate tear-jerkers. I should know, because not too long ago, I was one.

The writer is a veteran journalist and communications specialist. He can be reached on narayanrajeev2006@gmail.com. Views expressed are personal